Let me start by saying, I’m a woodworker – not a computer geek, so bare with me as I attempt to navigate this blog with you. As you can see in the pictures, I have started building 3 canoe coffee tables on my strong back. These coffee tables will finish at 42” long I am using Red Cedar strips, which I made myself by purchasing 8’ cedar boards that I ripped and milled to a finish size of ¼’ thick x ¾” wide. Then using my router table, I mill the cove & bead on opposite edges. I leave the strips full length until installed on the forms and then cut them to length as needed.
I have set up the strong backs and forms and have waxed the edges of the forms to keep the glue from sticking. As the picture shows, I have the inner stem ends steamed and set to the forms. Extreme care is critical when installing the first strip, which I install by nailing it to the form. I attach a guide strip horizontally along each of the forms at the height I want, to help keep the strips level. If the first strip is not completely level, the glass top, when completed, will not sit level.
When installing the strips I use small nails and old rubber inner tube strips to hold the strips in place with clamps, while the glue sets. “I leave the head of the nail sticking up, for later ease of removal”. Yellow wood glue is used to attach one strip to the next and to the inner stem ends. Glue is not used between the strip and the form as the form will need to be removed later. “I keep a damp rag handy to clean off excess glue.”
To ensure the strips stay tight to the forms and each other, shorter pieces may have to be scribed to the previous strip and the cove side may need to be re-milled. I leave my router table set up with the cove bit installed, to make the re-milling process more efficient and the fit tight on the previous piece installed. “It can be tedious, but it is the only way to ensure the strips stay tight to the forms to provide a smooth hull”. Come on back to the shop for the next step, after I get all my strips on.......
I have set up the strong backs and forms and have waxed the edges of the forms to keep the glue from sticking. As the picture shows, I have the inner stem ends steamed and set to the forms. Extreme care is critical when installing the first strip, which I install by nailing it to the form. I attach a guide strip horizontally along each of the forms at the height I want, to help keep the strips level. If the first strip is not completely level, the glass top, when completed, will not sit level.
When installing the strips I use small nails and old rubber inner tube strips to hold the strips in place with clamps, while the glue sets. “I leave the head of the nail sticking up, for later ease of removal”. Yellow wood glue is used to attach one strip to the next and to the inner stem ends. Glue is not used between the strip and the form as the form will need to be removed later. “I keep a damp rag handy to clean off excess glue.”
To ensure the strips stay tight to the forms and each other, shorter pieces may have to be scribed to the previous strip and the cove side may need to be re-milled. I leave my router table set up with the cove bit installed, to make the re-milling process more efficient and the fit tight on the previous piece installed. “It can be tedious, but it is the only way to ensure the strips stay tight to the forms to provide a smooth hull”. Come on back to the shop for the next step, after I get all my strips on.......
